BEAL ROPES - CLIMBING ROPE - ALPINISM ROPE - How to Choose a Climbing Rope
How to understand The characteristics of your dynamic rope better
Values required by the Standard:
• Single rope: Impact force lower than 12kN holding the first factor 1.77 fall with a mass of 80kg.
• Double rope: Impact force lower than 8kn holding the first factor 1.77 fall with a mass of 55kg.
• Twin rope: Impact force lower than 12kN holding the first factor 1.77 fall with a mass of 80kg,
on two strands.
The impact force printed in the technical notice must not be lower than the poorest result found by the certifying laboratory.
The core and the sheath of the rope are two independent components which have a tendency, if the construction is not carefully matched,
to dislocate and slide against each other.
The sheath deforms and little by little under the effect of the descender it bunches, creating a slack zone around the core and bulge points: the sock effect.
This phenomenon results in more rapid wear, particularly with top-roping or other intensive use, it also risks jamming in descenders or belay devices.
Diameter and weight
Ropes of large diameter generally have a longer active life. At the same time they are heavier and less agreeable to use. On routes where weight
and ease of running are important, it is preferable to choose a thinner rope. The overall performance of a rope may be considered as a balance between its weight and its dynamic performance…
The measure of diameter is less precise than that of the weight.
It is thus better to compare the weights of ropes than their stated diameters.
Number of bobbins
The sheath encircles and protects the rope’s core, it is the visible part. It is formed from groups of filaments: each group woven from a bobbin.
For equal diameter, a larger number of bobbins give better dynamic characteristics, and a smaller number of bobbins give better abrasion resistance. Thus one chooses a single rope of 48 bobbins construction for dynamic performance (TOP GUN II) or of 32 bobbins to maximise abrasion resistance (Wall Master V) by using thicker filament.
48 bobbins 32 bobbins
Number of falls
To satisfy the Standards, single rope must withstand 5 successive factor 1.77 falls with a mass of 80kg; double rope 5 successive falls with a mass of 55kg; twin ropes 12 successive falls with a mass of 80kg on two strands.
The number of falls shown on the technical notice must not be higher than the poorest result found by the certifying laboratory.
This is the stretch of the rope during the first UIAA test fall. It must be less than 40%.
Measured under a load of 80kg it must not exceed 10% for single rope, 12% for double rope, and 10% for two strands of twin rope together..
All BEAL ropes go well beyond in number of falls
- The lightest, those for high level performance, hold 6 to 8 falls.
- The classic ropes, 10 to 11 falls.
- The very heaviest, from 16 to 17 falls.
Performance which greatly exceeds the Standard
In the dynamic tests conducted in the drop tower, generally known as the UIAA test, the Standards have two requirements:
- The ropes must withstand a minimum of 5 successive falls made at 5 minute intervals.
- The maximum impact force recorded on the first drop must be less than 12-kN for single ropes, and 8-kN for double ropes.
Recorded impact forces are even more astonishing
Apart from Wall Master V, with very specific properties, all the single ropes have a maximum impact force of around 7-kN, and the double ropes around 5-kN.
But we go much further, because at the end of the series of successive test falls, our ropes still do not exceed the limit which is only required for the first fall! When you consider that rope loses some of its dynamic qualities with each fall, this is an incredible performance, guaranteed only by BEAL!
Henceforth, BEAL guarantees these results for the UIAA test. In maintaining these laboratory results (see notice) we first put the results guaranteed by BEAL at the time of manufacture.
These results are lower or equal to the lowest result determined by the laboratory.
The number of falls quoted for single ropes and for double ropes are not directly
comparable because they are not tested with the same mass.
- the attraction of a mass by gravity
- is a force, and one can
say as an approximation: 1Kgf = 1 daN
100 Kgf = 1 kN
How to understand The characteristics of your static rope better
Fall factor f: The fall factor
is the ratio of the length of the fall taken to the length of
rope which arrests it.
force F: This is the force which is transmitted to person,
connector, and anchor point during the arrest of a fall. The shock
force given in the performance tables is that obtained by a fall
factor 0.3 with a 100 Kg mass for type A ropes, and an 80 Kg mass
for type B ropes. This is required to be less than 6 kN.
of falls: The number of falls sustained is determined on a
rig which reproduces factor I falls. The terminations on the test
length are made with figure of 8 knots. The drop falls are made
at intervals of three minutes. Five falls must be sustained, using
a 100 Kg mass for type A, 80 Kg for type B.
E: This is the elongation of the rope which occurs between
loads of 50 Kg and 150 Kg. It must not exceed 5%.
K: A single overhand knot is tensioned with a 10 Kg weight
for one minute, thenthe internal diameter of the knot is measured
with the tension reduced to 1 Kg. The internal diameter divided
by the rope diameter : K < 1.2.
. Sheath slippage S: 2
m of rope is placed in the pulling rig and drawn through it 5
times. Sheath slippage must not exceed 15 mm for type B ropes,
and (20 + 10 (D - 9)) mm where D is the rope diameter, for type
. Shrinkage R: The percentage
shrinkage of the rope after soaking in water for 24 hours. Mass
of the sheath. The sheath must compose between 30 and 50% of the
total mass of the rope.
. Static strength: The
force required to break the rope when it is pulled slowly. type
A ropes must exceed 22 kN, type B ropes 18 kN.
strength with knotted terminations :
A sample of the rope terminated with a figure of 8 must withstand
for 3 minutes a force of 15 kN. (type A), 12 kN (type B). The
rope has a band fastened at its end indicating its type, A or
B, its diameter, the name of the manufacturer, and the number
of the Euro Norm to which it conforms. Each cut length of rope
must carry the information listed. In the centre of the rope is
a strip showing the rope type (A or B), the model, manufacturer's
name, the Norm number and the year of manufacture.
. CE : Conformity to the European
. 0120 : Number of the Notified Body.
. EN 1891 : Technical reference.